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#Eat614: Trillium majors in Ahi tuna, minors in patios

Remember Alana’s Food & Wine?

This is the restaurant now, feel old yet?

After nearly two decades, Alana’s packed up shop and made room for Trillium. Taking over such a legacy was no easy task but Trillium is committed to preserving the reputation of the location and adding another layer of complexity to already enormous expectations.

Bradley Balch, former executive chef at The Sycamore, is the owner. The location for his new venture was chosen because he expects redevelopment just down High Street will position Trillium to net a wider range of customers.

Onwards to the food!

Happy Hour includes Pork Cheek Mac & Cheese with cavatappi pasta and white cheddar topped with crispy breadcrumbs, and Chicken Wings with a watermelon-chipotle barbeque glaze. (Think sophisticated comfort food.) Small plates of Lump Crab Wontons with sweet and tart rhubarb barbecue, avocado crema, pickled red onion, and napa cabbage are decidedly Eastern with worldwide influences.

Large plates, like the McDowell Farms Pork Chop with bacon-cheddar Shagbark grits, andouille sausage, red-eye gravy, braised mixed greens, and jalapeno-peach jam offer unexpected depth and subtlety to Southern staples and are very shareable.

But the star of the show is the still the seafood.

Like the pedals of namesake flora, the current menu takes the featured fish in three distinct directions—the Ahi Tuna Poke of taro chips, shisito peppers, pickled radish, and sesame cucumber noodles; a grilled Ahi Tuna Nicoise with egg, greens, haricot verts, new potatoes, nicoise olive, tomato, white anchovie, caper berry, lemon zest, and a white wine vinaigrette; and the large plate of Ahi Tuna with a wasabi Okinawa sweet potato mash, tamari-charred haricot verts, Asian pear coulis, and house-made kimchi.

Trillium is open Tuesday-Thursday from 4-10pm and Friday and Saturday from 4-11pm

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