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Behind the Line: Barcelona

(Editor’s Note: Stock & Barrel and (614) Magazine devote plenty of ink to the people with their name at the top of the menu. This is the second in a recurring series of the integral employees in the culinary trenches—the guys and gals behind the guy or gal) It seems like hundreds of new restaurants have opened [...]
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(Editor’s Note: Stock & Barrel and (614) Magazine devote plenty of ink to the people with their name at the top of the menu. This is the second in a recurring series of the integral employees in the culinary trenches—the guys and gals behind the guy or gal)

It seems like hundreds of new restaurants have opened their doors in Columbus the past few years, meaning that some of the classic stars of the city’s culinary scene have increased competition. Many of those newcomers hope to emulate much of what has been delivered at the corner of Whittier and Jaeger in German Village.

While High Street has seen an overflow of seen-and-be-seen places popping up in the city’s new culinary explosion, it’s still considered prime seating at Barcelona’s first-come, first-serve, quad-like patio, where patrons can have a quick drink, or feast on the restaurant’s famous paella, the crown jewel of Scott Heimlich’s vision: fusing metropolitan chic with Old World dining.

Photo by Megan Leigh Barnard

Photo by Megan Leigh Barnard

But it’s not just a summertime joint. This winter, you can slink into the corner of the substantial bar for one of the best tapas happy hours in the city, surrounded by the cozy dining room, which has 100 years of history in its original exposed brick and tin ceilings.

In the past two years, Executive Chef Jacob Hough has expanded Barcelona’s communal dining attitude, hosting cooking classes in which he opens the menu to patrons—not afraid to teach them how to make that paella right in their own kitchens.

Barcelona is about sharing tastes—and credit—which is why Stock & Barrel is going Behind the Line to meet the team that carries that vision to reality each and every day:

David Underwood, 25
Chef Apprentice
Education
Self-taught

Experience Five years, spanning many different concepts, including Eddie George’s Bar and Grill, Heinen’s Fine Food, Darista Dips, and Sidecar Global Catering

Underwood is the understudy of the group but by no means a rookie. His diverse experience both on the line and in the catering/commercial arena make him a flexible asset at Barcelona, where he trains new staff, assists with inventory and ordering, and also makes inventive sauces and creates daily specials.

“David is quiet but extremely dynamic,” Hough said. “He can switch stations flawlessly and produce food beautifully.”


Todd Elder, 25
Sous Chef
Education
Psychology Neuroscience at OSU

Experience Six years, with many restaurants linked to the Barcelona family, including Hae Paul’s, Sí Señor!, and Sidecar Global Catering.

Elder is on board for menu development, cost, and inventory, but he also keeps the kitchen flowing as chief expediter—the crucial steward between the front and back of the house. That doesn’t keep him from also being creative.

“Todd has a passion for food that is always sparking his curiosity of pairing new flavors and trying cutting-edge techniques,” Hough said.

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Stephanie Kincaid, 32
Pastry Chef
Education
Columbus Culinary Institute

Experience 10 years producing pastries for several locations around the city, most notably for the Barcelona family of companies and Shaw’s Inn.

Savory food soaks up a lot of the Barcelona ink, which is a shame considering the world-class and world-inspired desserts that spin from the hands of Kincaid. In addition to concepting dishes and baking bread for lunch and dinner service, house-made desserts like Tarta De Queso and Tres Leches Cake are worth saving room for. Such sweetness goes well with Kincaid, according to Hough.

“Stephanie is definitely the mom of the kitchen,” he said. “She is always sweet and constantly continues to push limits on traditional desserts and techniques.”

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Jaime Perez, 28
Sous Chef
Culinary Arts, Columbus State

Experience 13 years around Columbus, including Sí Señor! and Sidebar 122

Perez’s daily duties consist of overseeing and maintaining training standards, concepting daily specials, as well as menu development and equipment maintenance. He also adds balance to any culinary team with his level-headedness and1 innovation.“Jaime is laidback, even when the heat is on. He brings to the kitchen a distinct Peruvian flare that drives his culinary creativity,” Hough said.

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Patrick Marker, 36
Sous Chef
Education
Associate’s degree in Culinary Arts and Sciences

Experience 20 years along the eastern seaboard, including Charley’s Crab Hilton, Hennery’s Market in Charleston, and Cypress Club at Hilton Head South Carolina

The ability to make great cuisine is often directly proportional to the quality and efficiency of your materials—which is why Marker is invaluable. He is involved in lunch menu development and ordering, in which he specializes in cost management, going so far as to constantly refine research on new dining trends and portioning. “Patrick’s ability to control food cost and labor are unparalleled. If your numbers are out of control—he’s your man.”

 

Photos by Megan Leigh Barnard

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Food & Drink

Harvest Pizzeria sowing last seeds in German Village

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Eight years ago, Harvest Pizzeria cropped up in a small space in German Village. Today, the local pizza chain announced the closure of its flagship location.

Harvest Pizzeria German Village will open its doors for the final time on Saturday, April 27th.

“Despite the success of Harvest in German Village and our strong ties to the neighborhood, the owner of the property will not honor our renewal of the lease,” wrote founder Chris Crader in an email. “…the landlord’s demands for a new lease at a higher rate would not allow our little pizzeria to remain viable.

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Crader added that he is proud of the strides Harvest German Village has made over the years, and thankful for the community that’s supported it. He hopes they can return to the neighborhood when the right spot presents itself.

As far as the employees go, Crader wrote that with the success of the other locations, the German Village workers will be able to join a team at another restaurant.

“Harvest sincerely thanks all of its loyal supporters and we hope to see you at our other locations soon,” wrote Crader.

This news follows the announcement of the Grandview Harvest closing back in February. Read more here.

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Crawfish boils claw their way into Columbus Saturday

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What’s the deal with crawfish boils? Sure, they’re delicious, but as a true land-lubbing midwesterner, my knowledge of this particular culinary phenomenon is fairly lacking.

That said, I definitely can’t tell you why there are multiple crawfish boils going down this Saturday. Best not to overthink it—just enjoy the experience!

Pecan Penny’s |113 East Main Street
Saturday at 4 PM – 7 PM

Sponsored by Brewdog, downtown BBQ joint Pecan Penny’s is kicking off patio season with an all-you-can-eat Crawfish boil, complete with giveaways and a DJ.

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Rehab Tavern | 456 W Town St
2 PM – 6 PM

Rehab’s own 4/20 crawfish boil kicks off at 2:00. Your $15.75 entrance fee will net you a pint of beer in addition to all-you-can-eat crawfish and fixins’!

Can’t make either of these, or want to try the boil experience before committing to a large-scale event? Check out Kai’s Crab Boil or Boiling Seafood Crawfish—both on Bethel Road —for first-rate seafood experiences you won’t soon forget.

Why are there two crawfish boils on the same day? Why are there two crawfish restaurants on the same road? We may never know, and honestly, who cares? Crawfish is the bomb! Just put on your bib and get crackin’!

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Condado knocking on your door with big news

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Fifty years ago, people may have thought we would be traveling around in flying cars by now. Instead, we’ve got a “skip intro” button on Facebook and now, Condado online ordering and delivery!

Beginning today, you can order your favorite tofu bowls, Sweet Lucy tacos, and quesos from the comfort of your home, then swing by your local Condado to feast! Delivery is also available Downtown, Clintonville, and Short North locations locally via DoorDash.

Sorry guys, we’re still not at a place where margarita delivery is possible. Stay tuned, though, stay tuned.

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