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Three’s Company: A trifecta of new breweries now open across Central Ohio

614now Staff

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How’s the craft beer scene in Columbus doing? Well, to sum it up nicely, it seems business is boomin’.

We are at a point in the brewery game where seemingly every street corner and suburb has a spot to belly up to the bar and tie a few on. And as we enter into a new year, that trend is showing no signs of slowing down as Columbus welcomed two new-to-us breweries, Galena Brewing and Forbidden Root Brewing. Because the best things come in threes, Zaftig Brewing is opening up a new location on Fourth St. In the spirit of good-hearted journalism, we checked out what’s on tap at each of these spots. All in a day’s work, right?

Forbidden Root Restaurant & Brewery | 4080 Worth Ave.

Thanks to a quicker construction process than originally planned, beer fans are now able to enjoy a cold one at the Chicago-native Forbidden Root Restaurant & Brewery, which is located in Easton. The opening features 10 original beers on tap ranging from IPAs to fruited wheat ales and oaked Vienna lagers. Of the batches of brew, the Hoodie Weather is a perfect winter lager, as it’s crispy and malty, but finishes with a touch of caramel sweetness. Don’t let the brown ale appearance fool you—the flavor and mouthfeel is most definitely a lager! The beer selection also features a 5.9% ABV Saison which is dry hopped with El Dorado for a citrusy body plus hints of pepper, thanks to the French Saison yeast. If you’re unsure of what beer to go with, the FR flight features Hoodie Weather, Saison, the NEIPA Small Talk, the fruited wheat ale Blackberry Fold, and the biere brut Sparkling Rose.

Photos: Zane Osler

Of course, beer isn’t the only alcohol on the lineup here. Forbidden Root also has a few cocktails to choose from; some of which feature FR beers, others are twists on bar classics. The Rake is one of the seasonal cocktails which features Middle West Wheated Bourbon with Genepy des Alpes, pink peppercorn, FR Small Talk, lemon, and hopped grapefruit bitters. There’s also the Forbidden Old Fashioned, a cocktail made with Middle West Dark Pumpernickel Rye, maple, citrus oil, and Bolivar and Angostura bitters.

The newly-opened brewery also offers chances for Easton shoppers to stop in and grab a bite to eat. The food here is a combination of shareables and appetizers with sandwiches, salads, and a select few entrees. If you’re just looking for a quick snack to accompany your beer, cheese and crackers can satisfy a craving. And if you’re with a bigger group, order the cheese plate, which can serve up to five people depending on how big you want your order. Other options for sharing include a charcuterie board, and entrees like the mussels in curry coconut broth showcase the elevated options available.

Zaftig Brew Pub | 119 E Fifth Ave

Zaftig Brewing, which already has a location in Worthington, has opened the doors on its new brew pub, in the Italian Village on Fourth St. While you’ll only find Zaftig originals on draft, variety is not lacking as 21 brews are on the menu. Of these, staples include the 7% ABV IPA Juicy Lucy, or the tamer Mini Bomb Blonde blonde ale at 5% ABV. The beer menu also offers chances for Zaftig to switch things up, as the rotating taps selection will feature one-off creations, recurring styles with seasonal twists, and a barrel-aged program with beers boasting ABVs upwards of 16%. Flights of three beers start at $8, and most 10 oz. pours are $5 to $7.

Non-beer drinkers will also find an assortment of cocktails on the menu, including the simple hop and tonic which features hopped High Bank Statehouse Gin, as well as the Zaftig Old Fashioned, made with Weller Special Reserve Bourbon. No matter what cocktail you decide on, you’ll pay $10, Zaftig’s established mixed drink rate. And if you’re after wine, a bottle of the most expensive vino on the list—Insurgente, a red blend from Portugal—will only run you $30. Other wine bottles include a sparkling moscato from Sicily, and rosé from Spain.

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The food at Zaftig features a variety of shareables and snacks in addition to five entrees, including a grilled pimento cheese sandwich, and the ancient grain power bowl. Snack options include the Zaftig fries—French fries in a specialty blend of herbs and spices served with Brewpub ranch. If you truly want to upgrade your fries, add the Heavy Hearted Amber cheese sauce for an additional $2. It’s worth the upcharge.

Galena Brewing Company | 5901 Chandler Ct.

Hailing into Westerville from Johnstown is local brewery Galena Brewing Company. This new location comes on the heels of Galena’s first brewery, which opened in September of 2018 after the brewers decided they needed more space. And more room is exactly what they got. The Westerville brewery and taproom now hosts six barrels—three times the amount at the original brewery.

The beer menu at Galena is a bit of a revolving door with audience input. The brewmasters here pride themselves on being “of the people” and “for the people.” Customers are encouraged to give opinions on how to switch up the flavor of a specific beer, or help come up with a name for the beer. The hope isn’t to find a beer they can sell but a beer people would want to drink. The results are options like Chocolate Wasted, a smooth porter with chocolate notes and a slightly minty finish, or The Dude IPA, a relaxed IPA with citrus and flowery hops.

While Galena doesn’t have a kitchen in the back, they have welcomed in a plethora of food trucks throughout the weekends. Options in the past have included Holy Taco, Hibachi Run, and Philly Buster.

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Food & Drink

Local restaurant named one of the best new concepts in the country

Regina Fox

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Columbus is making national headlines once again, this time thanks to Cameron Mitchell Restaurants.

The restaurant group's newest concept Del Mar SoCal Kitchen was named one of the country’s top 20 new restaurants in 2019 by OpenTable.com.

To be considered, restaurants had to be a part of the OpenTable network and meet a minimum number of qualified reviews.

Del Mar has a 90% recommendation rating according to OpenTable.

The restaurant opened in April 2019 at 711 N High St., serving California-inspired foods like lobster rolls, swordfish, beef tenderloin, as well as a raw bar.

To read more about Del Mar, click here. To check out their Restaurant Week menu, click here.

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Food & Drink

The Interview Issue: Columbus Brewing Company owners Beth & Eric Bean

Mitch Hooper

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Each January, we feature the movers and shakers of the city in in-depth, in-person interviews that dig into their backgrounds, their plans, and what ties them to the capital city. While our interview issue subjects are all Columbus-based, their stories are universal. So settle in, cozy up, and give yourself some you-time. You’ll want to read every word.

Columbus Brewing Company was at the forefront of the craft beer movement. Beth and Eric Bean are making sure it stays that way.

The next time you crack open a bottle of Columbus Brewing Company’s Bodhi, turn the bottle around until you see a seal of approval label. On every single bottle of CBC’s brews, there’s a quality assurance mark, signaling to the drinker that the brewer is proud enough of this beer to put their name on it. The name you’ll find on all bottles of CBC is Eric Bean, co-owner and brewmaster. And while he and his wife—CBC co-owner Beth Bean—have become more focused on working on their business rather than working for their business since taking over this legacy company in 2014, beer is always on their minds.

In 2019, CBC celebrated its 31st birthday, marking it as one of the longest-standing local breweries in Columbus. The special year also welcomed in a first for the company: a brewery and taproom on the city’s west side. It might sound crazy that one of the oldest breweries in Columbus is also one of the last to open a taproom, but the Beans both echoed this sentiment: it was the next proverbial step. While stocking bars with kegs and grocery stores with bottles is a way to monitor how brews are doing in terms of popularity, the immediate feedback from customers in the taproom can help influence future brews, which are being created daily in the back. It’s the new age, and even local breweries want analytics.

The opening of the taproom also represents the work the Beans have put in since taking over CBC, a journey that can be split into many silos. The brewery they took over holds a legacy in the Columbus community— both as an institution that is local, and one that serves some damn good beers. It’s up to Eric and Beth to not just maintain that status, but better yet, propel it to the next level. Outside some financial help from a bank, the brewery is essentially independent of investors, meaning there is creative freedom, but also plenty of risk. It’s also up to the Beans to craft the voice behind the brand of the beer. With a few iterations under its belt, the current CBC logo represents the traditions built by brewers past thanks to the old style font, and the brewers of the future thanks to modern illustrations, clever names, and interesting designs on the bottle.

Photos: Brian Kaiser

The Beans are dedicated owners. While Eric starts his mornings bright and early for sensory tests and meetings, Beth is no stranger to working late into the evening, solving errors on the website and preparing for future projects.

In talking with the Beans, you can tell the two love every aspect of the brewing process. While showing (614) around the brewery, Eric’s eyes lit up as he talked about CBC’s sour program, or the new bottling system which helps monitor the amount of oxygen getting into the bottle once it’s sealed. (It turns out oxygen can be detrimental to beer over time after the bottling process, and the new device allows the Beans to discover where there might be kinks in the distribution line.) It’s subtle moves like this that ensure a quality product finds its way into pint glasses across the city.

“We’ve always said we don’t want people to buy our beer just because it’s local—we want that to be a bonus,” Eric explained. “We want to be the best beer on the shelf [...] And it’s difficult. Making high quality beer is not as simple as many small brewers have found. It’s a lot easier when people are coming over and drinking your beer for free.”

This love for beer has roots that run deep for Eric. Prior to CBC, Eric was the brewmaster at Gordon Biersch, a well-loved national restaurant and brewery chain that began in 1988. Before that, Eric took his time to master his craft—literally. He attended U.C. Davis, where he studied brewing science in the master brew program under the guidance of a German-trained brewmaster.

“Henrick was the brewmaster and he was like, ‘Look, craft beer is going to stay. What I see as a problem is there aren’t trained brewers in the U.S. There are a bunch of talented brewers that don’t have the technical skills,’ ” Eric recalled. “He was the one who really convinced me that if I wanted to make a niche in this industry, I had to go to brewing school.”

The goal for Eric since the beginning has been the same: make high-quality beer he can be proud of while also pushing the envelope.

Originally, CBC approached Eric about coming on as the head brewmaster. He had other ideas in mind, kindly declining the offer and following up with a bigger ask: could he just outright buy the company?

“It was a Friday afternoon meeting that wasn’t really planned, and within a couple of weeks we were negotiating it and putting it all together,” Eric recalled.

It didn’t take long for CBC to need more space for all the projects they were working on at the time.

“In the end at the old place, we’d have to drive the forklift into the parking lot to turn it around and get it back in,” Beth said. “We never thought we’d fill the new place, but if you look in the back, that’s not the case.”

The face and voice of the company comes from Beth, who manages the social channels with her own photography. It’s not often considered when it comes to drinking, but branding is a large part of what helps to sell your beers. While the true “King of Beers” might be up for debate, the trademarked King of Beers is something we are all too aware of. The same can be said for local brewers. Finding a way to stand out on the shelves is a challenge, and something as simple as a nice looking bottle design can be the difference between sipping a six pack of CBC IPA, or a case of Bud Light. The Beans entrust graphic designer Greg Davis to create the label designs, and his art work can be found on the murals inside the brewery and taproom.

The pinnacle of their hard work comes in the form of a bottle, the Columbus IPA. Prior to the Beans taking over, CBC was stocked with pale ales and lagers, but it was Eric who introduced a West Coast IPA to the line up. It was an instant success, and it led to the birth of other popular IPAs such as the aforementioned Bohdi and Creeper, both of which have been award recipients at the Great American Beer Festival.

“I think that’s why people know us, you know? Mostly IPAs,” Beth said. “That’s what really is the backbone.”

The Beans said 2014 is when they noticed the craft beer boom start to pick up steam. Couple a community’s interest in where their goods are coming from with a growing need for elevated options and you have the perfect storm for CBC. This is also when other local breweries started to find popularity, and the Beans tip their caps to places like Wolf’s Ridge for combining high quality beers with thoughtful dishes. While the CBC brewery and taproom currently doesn’t feature food, the Beans are working on a food adventure near Old Towne East called the Trolley Barn which will host CBC taps in the future.

Though the love of the brand and the beer is apparent, the care the two show towards its staff further proves the Beans’ dedication to quality. When the two took over CBC, the staff was much smaller than the more than 40 employees they have today.

“We always try to remember it’s not just Eric and I. It’s not just our house on the line,” Beth explained. “We have a bunch of employees and families that count on us and we are trying to make sure they have jobs in the future. We’re responsible for a lot of people—and not just us. Also the people we buy from. It’s like a whole community.”

As always for the Beans, its quality over quantity. This mantra is what has made this brewery into what it is today. And if Eric and Beth’s time at CBC has proven anything, it’s that all great things take a little time and a lot of beer.

The Columbus Brewing Company Taproom is located at 2555 Harrison Road. Visit columbusbrewing.com to learn more.

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Food & Drink

Restaurant Week Sneak Peek: Wolf’s Ridge Brewing

Regina Fox

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In less than 10 years at its natural sunlight-soaked digs on N 4th Street, Wolf's Ridge Brewing has managed to become a place revered not only for brewing some of the best beers the city has to offer, but also for serving some of the best food.

What better time to experience them both than Restaurant Week January 20-25?

We were lucky enough to get a sneak peek of Wolf's Ridge three-course menu before it was released to the public, and we think you're really going to like it.

First Course: Choice of baked brie, endive salad, or bread and butter

The endive salad offered depths with every bite: the brightness of the shaved pear, the fresh earthiness of the endive, the texture of the fennel, the crunch of the walnuts. But the star of this dish was certainly the pool of tangy, creamy blue cheese dressing hiding below the colorful mixture.

Second Course: Choice of salmon, grilled cauliflower, or pork tenderloin

Without a shadow of a doubt, I believe each one of the entrees offered during Restaurant week are slam dunks, but to me, the choice was obvious: pork tenderloin.

The three plump and pink cuts of pork were so tender, they could be easily cut with just a butter knife. The succulence of the meat played well with the sweet, nutty sunchoke puree, and rich smoked hazelnut butter. Like the french origin suggests, the demi-glace soaked into the tenderloin truly was the "icing" on top.

Third Course: Choice of cheesecake or fudge bar

If at the end of your meal you're feeling bright, light, and flirty, the cheesecake is for you. The toasted coconuts coating the mousse-like rum cheesecake, icy pineapple sorbet and orange marmalade will send your palate on an all-inclusive trip to the seaside.

Feeling a little more dense or moody? The punch of the espresso ice cream, thick chocolate bar, and sticky caramel crémeux will have you closing your eyes, and "mmm"ing through every bite.

At $40, the Wolf's Ridge Restaurant deal is quite possibly the best time to experience the creative, elevated menu. But, you and the other 900,000 residents of Columbus already know that, right? So, don't wait to make your reservation!

To learn more about Restaurant Week January 20-25, visit eat614.com.

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