The Weekender: Three translations of Rome’s Cacio e Pepe
There is something magical about enjoying a bowl of Cacio e Pepe while dining alfresco and taking in the sights and sounds of Rome. This dish, known as Romans’ uncomplicated grown-up mac n’ cheese, is proudly recreated throughout Columbus. The misconception that a simple recipe can easily be recreated could not be farther from the truth. A meal this famous, composed of such few ingredients, must utilize the freshest and highest quality components and be meticulously executed.
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• Pelino’s Pasta, located on King Avenue in Victorian Village, left me rooting for this husband-and-wife team. Italian-trained Chef and owner Vinny Pelino opens his kitchen at 5 a.m. to prepare from-scratch pasta using a bronze dial imported from Italy (this creates the nooks and crannies in the pasta that catches the cheesy goodness). Pelino’s Cacio e Pepe is composed of house-made Gemelli pasta tossed with salted pasta water inside an Italian cheese wheel of Pecorino Romano and finished with toasted and freshly cracked peppercorn. This sumptuous bowl of al dente pasta is perfectly cut by salty sheep’s cheese, and the toasted peppercorns delicately adhere to each noodle. The tableside preparation makes this plate both dinner and the show.
Insider tip: get the fluffy house-made focaccia
•Novella Osteria sits proudly in old-town Powell and has become a date-night staple in north Columbus. Novella’s Bucatini Cacio e Pepe is prepared using durum wheat bucatini tossed with olive oil and butter, layered with bloomed and toasted peppercorns, and finished with freshly ground Pecorino Romano. Novella chose a hollow, hard noodle to ensure an al dente pasta where the sauce effortlessly collects inside. The laid-back atmosphere perfectly mimics an evening spent dining in Italy.
•Paulie Gee’s Short North serves their Cacio e Pepe on a wood-fired crust. This kooky and thought-provoking pizza is delicious and easy to share. Paulie Gee’s has swagger, boasting a “nose-first” experience, which is exactly what customers experience with freshly sliced garlic, copious amounts of pecorino Romano, parmigiana Reggiano, mozzarella, and post-oven burrata, and cracked black pepper. The crust effortlessly holds up to the plethora of toppings and beautifully compliments the sweet garlic, aged hard cheese, and creamy whole milk cheeses with peppery notes creating a balanced bite.
These three restaurants have recreated some of my favorite food memories from Italy. This weekend is the perfect time for you to enjoy a leisurely European-style meal of velvety pasta and olive oil-soaked focaccia.
If you like this, read: The Weekender: Three places for beef birria
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