The Weekender: Three shareable plates at Sycamore
Sycamore is nestled in the German Village landscape on the corner of E. Sycamore St. and S. 6th St. You will recognize it by the bustling coffee window surrounded by joggers, dog walkers, and pajama-clad neighbors, all happily waiting for their morning jolt. There is an indescribable homey feeling upon entering; maybe it’s the smells from the kitchen or the restaurant’s vibrant culture. Owners Tony Heaphy and Chef Jackie Heaphy are a brother and sister force: Raised by restaurateurs, their talents were honed since childhood. Their passion and undeniable friendship transcended our conversation and made me want to ask for an application. The menu is a testament to cozy cooking that feeds the soul and persuades you to reach across the table and indulge off your companion’s plate.
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•The small plate Mussels leave you fighting for the last slice of French baguette, hoping to soak up the sumptuous sauce that gathers at the bottom of Sycamore’s clay bowl. The meaty Prince Edward mussels compliment the harmonized sauce of sharp garlic, white onion, acidic San Marzano tomatoes, buttery white wine, and crushed red pepper that adds the slightest heat to the back of your throat.
•Birria is a Columbus obsession, and Sycamore morphs this commodity into a bowl you can easily pass around the table. The flavors are delicately layered—tomato, Thai chili, guajillo chili, jalapeno, cumin, cloves, peppercorn, and cinnamon. Marinated overnight, the Butcher & Grocer beef shank is slowly roasted, giving the juices time to reduce and mingle with the Mexican spices and rich sauce. Not to be forgotten, the corn tortillas perfectly encapsulate the well-seasoned and delicately pulled beef.
•The Whole Branzino is guaranteed to garner oohhs and aahhs from the entire restaurant when presented at your table. Liberally stuffed with rosemary, thyme, garlic, and lemon, and drizzled with high-quality olive oil, this showstopper is served atop watercress and blistered tomatoes. The buttery fish gracefully falls off the bone while maintaining crispy skin. Bright acidity from the lemon and fragment herbs do not overwhelm this delicate fish. It is the definition of beautiful simplicity and unquestionably delicious.
Sycamore is where you want to bring your closest friends to embrace quaint neighborhood charm and savor shareable plates that inspire long talks and laughter. Once you experience the magic of walking through Sycamore’s brick façade, chances are you will become a regular.
If you like this, read: The Weekender: Three places to score a smash burger
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