Less is More: New Italian eatery is keeping things simple—and Columbus is eating it up
While some Michelin-starred restaurants in the midwest serve apple-flavored balloons or a salad still rooted in a mound of dirt, the new Italian, Powell eatery Novella Osteria, keeps it much more straightforward.
“Whether it’s food or design, it’s always been less is more for me,” said owner and head chef Matthew Phelan. “We keep things super simple.”
A quick glance around the sparse but tastefully designed interior—well-lit and brimming with the charm (and stonework) of an Italian villa—will confirm this.
As will a quick glance down the menu. They’re known for house-made pasta like the classic cacio e pepe (Italian for simply “cheese and pepper”) which is elegant in its simplicity, containing only bucatini pasta, black pepper, and pecorino.
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Non-pasta dishes like their Burrata also display this philosophy. The dish, which flirts with sweetness, acidity, and savory notes in a single bite, still remains simple in terms of composition: it’s made of peaches, tomato vinaigrette, basil, and Italian vinegar.
According to Phelan, another reason he opts for simple dishes has to do with ingredients. Using fresh, local purveyors such as Hershberger Farms, Coastal Local Seafood, and Dee-Jay’s Custom Butchering, he wants to ensure the quality and nuance of their flavors aren’t overshadowed by superfluous additions.
“The connection I have with those vendors means everything to me,” Phelan said. “Because really, it’s about the product first. What they have, that’s what dictates what we’re putting on the menu.”
The young head chef recalls a recent instance when he was purchasing produce from Hershberger Farms and discovered they were selling squash blossoms at the time. “I bought the entire truckfload of them,” he said with a laugh. “We eventually fried and added them to our ravioli, it created this great textural element.”
And even though its food recalls the faraway flavors of Italy, Novella Osteria is able to retain the warmth and character of a truly local restaurant.
Much of this likely comes from the fact that Phelan is himself a native son of Central Ohio, hailing from nearby Dublin.
And the rest of that charm? That comes from Phelan’s ability to slow down and embrace what’s around him; to live simply. Just like he cooks.
“People are catching onto what we’re doing here and liking it. That’s a pretty cool feeling to be honest with you,” he said. “Because ultimately, we’re a good neighborhood restaurant, and we’re not trying to be anything more than that.”
Learn more at novellaosteria.com
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